Master Your Area: What I Learned with I Love Cuba Photo Tours
Oh, Havana… I remember when I moved there in 2017, still fresh from a two-month trip to the United States and a little over a hectic month working for ¡AHORA! Newspaper covering Hurricane Irma. Still naïve, still unaware of the monster I was moving into, and with a little bit of a know-it-all feel just for having had the experience of traveling to America twice.
Little did I know that by joining I Love Cuba Photo Tours, I would open my eyes to the capital that had long been denied to me(1), at least for my full enjoyment.
The growth
So, I must admit: at first, my images of La Habana were dull and meaningless. I was basically relegating myself to the always crowded and touristy Calle Obispo, the areas of Parque Central, Paseo del Prado and the Capitolio. I also roamed some of Vedado, and took glimpses of Carlos III. These areas are cool as well, but are just a scratch on the surface of what the Cuban capital really was.
The diverse and intricate universe of Centro Habana was until then unbeknownst to me. At least the deeper off-the-beaten-path areas I would later discover. The same can be said about the slums in La Habana Vieja—or just L’a:ana (2)—, which were equally mysterious and captivating.
Then, I took the first photowalk with Yosel Vázquez, in an effort to get me ready to take foreign travelers along the dilapidated streets and building façades. That first photo-tour led me to take some compelling photos, including one that was included in my special edition of DOCU Magazine. I even sent Yosel a copy of it, and I signed that particular page for him.
Yet, it was clear that in order to be one of the top members of the team I needed to fully master the city. So, instead of staying home and resting whenever I didn’t have a paid gig, my curiosity and drive led me to take my steps and my lens to streets that were rather unfamiliar. They were actually more off the beaten path than what we would normally do as a team.
The personal exploration and excursions unveiled a new series of backstreets, rundown buildings, controversial façades, breathtaking graffiti, underground bars and cafés, and even more photogenic urban landscapes. Capturing stories had become easier and more frequent.
However, the biggest lesson this whole approach taught me was that the likelihood of you taking good street photos is higher if you connect with people in a meaningful way. More than one stranger opened the doors of their house for me to visit and photograph. I shared a coffee, a cigarette, a shot of rum, or a conversation with more people than I can remember.
There is no doubt in my mind that I would not have captured so many interesting images of Havana if I had stayed static and thought of I Love Cuba Photo Tours as merely a job. I remember in one of our first conversations Yosel told me the streets he would recommend that I took, but asked me to do my own research, to find my own areas. And I am happy that I listened to him.
It wasn’t too long before he asked me where to find the graffitis of a gorilla, Compay Segundo, or Che Guevara that I had posted on my Instagram feed. I became particularly obsessed with finding out as much as I could of Central Havana, sometimes even taking big risks by going to areas that were labeled as being not too safe.
The outcome was a double win. While my photos became better, more meaningful and more critical, I also befriended individuals who would initially look at me with reluctance just because I carried a camera and sometimes walked with Americans. That put me in a position of advantage: I was greeted by everyone everywhere.
I can see the shift in my photography, from very flat images of mainly Old Havana to actually storytelling photos of the slums. The knowledge about the city came paired with a substantial growth in the diversity and depth of my photography. I also grew as a human being, becoming more aware of the reality that I had been blind about.
The truth is, none of that would have been possible with the knowledge and experience on the craft alone.
Carrying the mentality overseas
I carried the same air and persona with me when I got to San Miguel de Allende in Mexico. Although I was initially weary about roaming the city, it didn’t take long for me to start exploring it in full. I ventured into the lovely Centro, but I also visited some less tourist-friendly areas.
First, it was the area of Los Frailes and Pedro Páramo, where most of my friends lived—and where I initially stayed. A rather suburban residential area consisting of both paved and dirt roads, I walked around it and was able to capture some images, while also making friends with strangers and even getting rides with them—yes, I got into a car with complete strangers more than once.
Second, the very heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. The plazas, the parish, the restaurants. SMA was ideal for street photography, mainly because of how crowded it was and because being so touristy, people didn’t mind being photographed.
However, going out of the pristine zone, and venturing more off the beaten path, enabled me to photograph a completely different face of the town. Valle del Maíz opened its doors to me, and some other images started pouring in. I discovered a universe that was in a way similar to life as I had experienced in Central Havana. I also befriended strangers and was called by my first name more than once while walking around.
And just as it had happened in Cuba, meeting and befriending new people gave me room to understand life in SMA better, thus taking more appealing photos.
Since I made it to Connecticut, I have been trying to carry that same approach everywhere I go. some cafés, restaurants, bars, gas stations, libraries, and souvenir and antique shops have been opened to me for the taking.
The Playbook
One can ponder on how to actually get to know a city as a photographer. It is my opinion, though, that following a set of your own rules and steps can lead to some success in that aspect. The reality is that knowing a city and its “secrets” can always lead to good photography.
So, I intend to offer a list of things that I did while being a member of I Love Cuba Photo Tours and others that I should have done in order to understand Havana photographically.
Walk without the camera: Walking without the camera or walking with the camera without actually using it is very useful for you to actually understand and observe both architecture and lifestyle. I know I am not the best follower of such rule (I don’t recall ever following it in Havana), but I do recommend it.
Look at the sun: While walking for the first time, look at the position of the sun. That is going to allow you to know when to come back to take a better image. Sometimes the time of the day is less than ideal to capture a good image of something, so knowing where the sun is going to be for your photo is crucial.
Look at landmarks or street names at every corner: It is important to know where you are. Being aware of where you are going or where you have been will help you go back and find something that previously caught your eye.
If a street catches your eye, take it: It is true that you can potentially get lost, but there is always a chance to walk back and find your way. If you remember the name of the streets you have been to, or any landmarks, you will be fine finding your way back. The importance of walking into the unknown is that you will end up discovering interesting and special things.
Talk, ask, befriend: There is no way to know an area really well if you don’t get to know its people. Talking to strangers so they get to know you, asking questions about them or the area will teach you a lot, befriending them will open several doors for you. Thanks to that, I must say I never felt lost or unsafe.
Go back to the same places: Both in Havana and San Miguel de Allende, I got used to going to the same place for a coffee or a beer. The reason is that if you go to the same place constantly, they will remember you, and you are more likely to find out what is going on in town. Also, if you do it at different times of the day, you will see the way light works and you will be able to recognize and capture different types of light.
Read the signs: Some places have signs that provide useful information, like an event happening soon, opening and closing hours, photo or access restrictions, etc.
Do research before and after: A couple of times in Havana, I saw a building that caught my attention. On most occasions, there was no marker other than the shape of the structure, the type of architecture, or a cornerstone. So, that led me to find what the building had been online, The same happened in San Miguel, and more recently in Middleburg, NY. So, my reaction was to try to find out after the fact. That has led me to go back to the same place just to take a better photo.
Final thoughts
Knowing the area you are photographing makes you a better urban explorer. However, it is also important to keep on learning about a place even if you are an “expert” on it. It will generally allow you to be a better documentary photographer.
Also, it is fun to be able to say that you know your area very well, and to know where to go for a specific reason. There is no doubt in my mind that I wouldn’t have taken half as many good photos of Havana had it not been for I Love Cuba Photo Tours.
Notes:
Hard to believe as it may seem, Cubans from other parts of the island get persecuted and “deported” back home if they get caught doing business in Havana without their chance to prove residency. As a result, other Cubans, mainly from the eastern part, always feel a certain fear of embracing the capital in full.
Most people in Havana, mainly those who migrate from other parts and catch on the accent (but try to force it way too much), will make the “b” sound like a very soft Spanish “v” to the point of making it almost silent.
